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A trotline is a variation of a
setline. Webster's dictionary defines a setline as
being "a long heavy fishing line to which several
hooks are attached in series." A trotline is defined
as "a comparatively short setline used near shore or
along streams." Some other common variations of a
setline include limblines, throwlines, and juglines.
The Department of Game & Fisheries defines a
trotline as "a line without a rod or reel attached
that need not be held in the hand or closely
attended."
Specifically, a trotline
is nothing more than a long line, resting on the
bottom and anchored at both ends, to which a series
of baits are attached at intervals of two to six
feet. The baits are attached to the main line by
simple slipknots or by shorter lines called dropper
lines (known as trots or snoods.)
As you begin this age-old
pursuit you will of course want to get the parlance
right, so you don't seem too much like a
chicken-necker. Calling the dropper lines "snoods"
will put you right up there with the old salts.
Also, don't ever talk about "checking" your trotline
or "taking a look at" your trotline. You always
"run" a trotline. This makes sense because the word
trotline comes from the old Germanic word "trotten,"
meaning "to tread, pace, or run." So when you "run"
your trotline you are in keeping with the proper
etymology of the sport.
With all that said, running a
trotline is one of the most efficient methods of
crabbing because it allows the crabber to work large
areas of water of varying depths and conditions in
order to maximize his catch.
Trotlines are almost always
worked from a boat. Commercial crabbers run one, two
or possibly three lines up to a mile in length!
Sport crabbers should certainly start with a much
shorter length until they get the hang of it. Even
100 feet will be a lot at first.
Supplies
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2 marker buoys (Clorox
bottles, Styrofoam floats, etc.)
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2 anchors (grapnels,
cinder blocks, old engine parts, etc.)
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2 short lengths of
heavy galvanized chain, 2- to 3-feet in length.
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4 sections of poly
line, each 20-feet in length.
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100- to 5,000-feet of
line for the main trotline. Beginners should
start small.
The line should be between 1/8-
to 3/8-inch in diameter (or 20-pound-test) and can
be made of hemp, cotton, nylon, or polyester (or any
strong material that does not float.)
Tips:
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Most watermen prefer
to use 5/32-inch (4 mm) Dacron polyester line
for the main section. Dacron is much less
elastic than nylon, is nearly as strong, and
does not float.
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If you choose to use
cotton, use untreated number-one cotton line (it
is said that cotton line treated with tar or
other chemicals will scare away the crabs.)
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Use 5/32-inch poly
(polypropylene) line for the buoy line sections.
Poly line will float and is desirable should one
of your buoys become separated from the line.
Since the line floats, you will be able to
locate the end of your pendant lines and
reattach the buoy.
Assembly
See figure at the top of this
page for a completed trotline.
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Attach one of the
20-foot sections of line to an anchor.
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Tie the other end of
the line to a buoy.
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Take another 20-foot
line and attach one end to the same buoy.
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Attach the other end
of the second line to a section of chain.
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Attach your main
trotline to the other end of the chain.
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Perform the same steps
to the opposite end of the trotline (tie to
chain, chain to 20-foot line, 20-foot line to
buoy, buoy to other 20-foot line, line to
anchor.
Tips:
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As a rule of thumb,
remember "the longer the line, the heavier the
anchor."
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Use bronze
snap-swivels on the ends of all your lines. This
allows you to quickly assemble/disassemble your
trotline. This also allows you to combine small
trotline sections to form a longer trotline
(smaller sections are easier to work with too!)
Two sections of line
connected with snap-swivels
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Remember not to attach
the anchor directly to the main line. Rather,
the anchor should lead to the buoy on a separate
pendant line.
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At each end of the
main line, a short length of galvanized chain
(or other type of weight) is attached to keep
the line on the bottom. Again, the length of the
main line and bottom currents will dictate how
heavy this weight should be.
Main line connected to the
leader chain with a snap-swivel
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The anchors can range
from cinder blocks to old automobile parts.
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By placing 2-ounce
weights spaced about every 20 baits, you can be
better assured that your line will not move off
the bottom.
Baiting
It is generally accepted that
salted eel is the best bait for use on a trotline.
But, because eel is considered a delicacy in many
countries, its price can be prohibitive for use as
bait. Alternatives include chicken or turkey necks,
beef tripe, bull lips, tough trash fish like small
croaker, or any other tough meat that can't be eaten
too quickly.
One of the advantages of using
eel is that if only a bone is left attached, you can
be assured that there are hungry crabs lurking
below.
Tip: Early in the season, when
there are many small crabs, increase your bait
spacing so not to lose as much to the razor-sharp
claws of these small crabs. As the season progresses
and the crabs start running bigger, shorten the
spacing since large crabs tend to clasp the bait and
feed.
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Slip Knots - Bait
should be cut into 2- to 3-inch sections and
attached about every 2- to 6-feet directly
to the main line using simple slipknots (see
diagram at right.) Some watermen space their
baits by the width of their outstretched
arms. Just remember that the closer the
spacing, the more bait required.
Howard Garey, an avid
trotliner, says that it's much easier to
work with wet line. His technique is to put
the bait pieces on a cutting board and to
place a bushel basket on each side, knotting
up the baits and faking the baited line into
the basket. "That's the tricky part because
the last thing you want is to have that baby
tangle up when you're laying out your line."
Tip: By using 5/32-inch
line, you can easily remove spoiled baits by
quickly jerking the slipknot. The knot will
quickly compress and cut through the bait
causing it to "pop" off. Once the bait is
gone and the knot untied, simply tie a new
slipknot, insert bait, and pull snug! If you
use line that is thicker than 5/32-inch, the
line won't be as "sharp" and won't be able
to cut through the old baits very easily.
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How to Tie a
Slipknot
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Snoods (or Trots) - Long
ago, watermen attached their baits to the main line
using 6" dropper lines, called
snoods or trots. One end
of the snood is tied to the main line and the other
end is tied to the bait. Many watermen still prefer
to use snoods, although they use special
stainless-steel clips to fasten the snoods to the
main line.
The photos below show how easy
it is to attach a snood to the main line using a
3-inch mini clip. Simply squeeze the clip and hook
it over the line. When the clip is released, it is
securely attached to the main line. The ingenious
design of the clip makes it virtually impossible for
it to fall off. The six-inch snood line with bait
attached (not shown) is tied to the bottom eyelet of
the clip.
Some obvious advantages of
using this method are:
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The ability to store
the trotline bare (and dry) with no baits
attached.
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As the trotline is
deployed, snoods are clipped on at whatever
interval is deemed necessary for the conditions.
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As you run the
trotline, missing baits can be quickly replaced
by clipping on a fresh snood.
3" mini clips can be
purchased from most commercial fishing supply
houses. If you can't locate them locally, you can
order them from Ocean Products Research, Inc. at
(800) 627-6008. Price is $0.79 (79¢) each.
Storage
Store your trotline (with baits
attached), and any unused bait, in a barrel of
strong brine solution, called "pickle," in order to
preserve it. The pickle is made using 4 pounds of
salt to 5 gallons of water. You'll have it right
when a raw potato (or egg) floats. Carefully coil
(fake) your trotline into the pickle barrel and set
a basket on top to keep everything submerged.
Watermen say that not only does the pickle preserve
the bait, keeping it usable for many trips, but also
attracts crabs! Make sure you test the consistency
after each use, adding salt to keep it just right.
Note: Do not store
chicken/turkey neck baits in pickle since it does
not work well. Store chicken/turkey necks in an old
refrigerator instead.
Tips:
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One 5-gallon bucket
will store 750-feet of 5/32-inch trotline, with
baits attached.
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Instead of using a
liquid brine solution, you can use dry salt
instead. Sprinkle a liberal amount (several
inches) of salt in layers as you fake the line.
Working with a dry mixture is easier since no
there is no liquid to spill. Plus you can carry
your storage containers to the boat and play out
the line directly from the container.
Anchor and pendant line
connected with a snap hook
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Attach bronze
snap-swivels to the ends of all your lines. This
allows you to easily connect multiple lines
together to form a long trotline. For example,
if you choose to use 750-foot sections, you can
connect 7 sections together to form a 1-mile
trotline! As you pull in your line, you can
quickly disassemble it by disconnecting the buoy
lines, the leader chains, and the individual
baited sections.
Other Equipment
Dip Net - You will
need a good quality dip net (or "scap" net).
Most watermen prefer using pre-formed
wire mesh net bags
(see photo at right) as opposed to cotton,
twine, or nylon since crabs don't tangle up
in wire as easily and the wire net cuts
through the water with significantly less
resistance. Others prefer cotton nets since
they can be laid down flat on the washboard
whereas rigid wire nets can roll overboard
when set down.
Regardless of the
material you choose for the net bag, your
dip net should have a 16-inch bow and a
7-foot handle. Some watermen prefer longer
handles, but they have a tendency to break
off easily. Choose a dip net that is most
comfortable for you.
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Wire Mesh Dip Net
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Prop Stick
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Prop Stick - It is
highly recommended
that you rig your boat with a hinged "prop
stick," a board, usually a two-by-four,
mounted aft of amidships that extends out
about 3-feet perpendicular to the starboard
gunwale (see photo at left.) A wide brass
roller is mounted horizontally at the end
between two vertical guides. The trotline is
pulled up with a gaff and laid on top the
brass roller between the guides.
Thus, as the crabber
works his line, the baits (hopefully with
crabs attached) are gently lifted to the
surface where they are netted just below the
surface. It's not hard to rig something like
this up. Some people use a household rolling
pin as a roller. Others fashion a large hook
out of metal or PVC pipe to serve this
purpose. If you don't want to use a prop
stick, the line can be worked the old
fashioned way: hand over hand.
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Tow-Board (sea drogue, or
sea anchor) - If your boat moves too quickly along
the trotline, crabs tend to "let go" and fall off.
Or, if they don't, you may not have enough time to
net them. In either case you can employ the use of a
tow-board to slow your boat. A tow-board is a wide
board mounted on the stern, which can be raised or
lowered into the water. When lowered, it slows the
boat in a strong following sea. Instead of a
tow-board, you can use a commercially available sea
drogue or sea anchor tied to the stern. An easy way
to make your own sea anchor is make a "drag basket,"
which is simply a wooden bushel basket tied to a
line that is dragged behind the boat.
Line Hauler - Some
watermen use a hydraulic line hauler to pull their
lines in at the end of the day. The sheaves on these
haulers are identical to crabpot haulers, but there
is no arm used on trotline haulers. The sheaves are
generally mounted flat on the washboard or on a
45-degree angle.
In addition to these
items, bring a container to store your catch. A
wooden bushel basket is the best choice for this
task. You may also want to consider crabbing gloves
or a pair of sturdy tongs to handle the crabs. Also
consider bringing a partner with you so that one
person can operate the boat and watch the line while
the other concentrates on netting the crabs. Other
items to consider are a good pair of polarized
sunglasses that block UVA and UVB rays (polarized
lenses eliminate glare and allow you to see deeper
into the water,) high SPF sunscreen lotion, and
plenty of cold beverages.
Working a Trotline
Time - Start early.
Commercial trotliners start their day at about 4:00
a.m. and work until about 11:00 a.m. The early rise
time is usually needed to prepare for the day's
activities since crabs usually don't start running
until dawn. If no preparation is needed, make
certain that you're on the water with your trotline
deployed as the sun rises. Any earlier is usually
unproductive.
Water Depth & Location -
In most situations, a trotline should be worked
where the water depth is between 4 and 20 feet. The
trotline is usually set parallel to the shore where
the bottom drops off. The beauty of a trotline is
that it allows you to cover vast distances so that
your odds of finding a hot spot are greatly
increased. Watermen say that running a trotline over
a shell bottom yields more crabs.
Important tip:
Keep far away from other trotliners.
It's all-too-common for trotlines to get tangled up
when they're run close together or if the lines
accidentally cross.
Wind & Tide -
The beginner, in
particular, is advised to work his line with the
tide or wind. It will be difficult enough without
the boat being blown or pushed the wrong way.
Starting upwind, throw the lead anchor overboard and
play out the line as the boat moves forward. When in
doubt, let the boat drift while playing out the
line. Unless conditions change, you can be assured
that when you return to your starting point, the
boat will drift in the same direction again. Be sure
to play out the line slowly so that you can untangle
the line if needed. When you reach the end of the
line, drop the second anchor overboard and return to
the upwind buoy.
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Running the
Trotline - Using a gaff or hook, catch and
slowly pull the main line to the surface.
Place the line over the prop stick and
slowly navigate the boat down the line. If
your boat moves too quickly, deploy your
tow-board or sea anchor. The line should be
taut and rise out of the water at a 30º to
40º angle.
As the boat moves
down the line, watch for crabs clasped to
the bait. Bring the crabs close to the net
without scaring them. Net them and toss them
into the basket. Be quick, because the crabs
will drop off the bait as soon as it breaks
the surface. Don't cast your shadow on the
line since this will spook the crabs,
causing them drop off. Also, while netting
the crabs, be careful not to reach too far
since since this can leave you over-extended
and off balance.
If the boat is moving
too fast, or the crabs are running thick,
you may not have time to deposit each crab
in your container before the next one shows
up. Seasoned trotliners dip several crabs
with the net before putting them all in the
basket. Practice and coordination take time.
As you run the line,
remember to cull your catch. Release
undersized crabs immediately. Toss legal
ones into your basket. Keep a wet cover
(canvas or burlap) over the basket to keep
the crabs cool and prevent them from
escaping. With time permitting, replace any
old or missing baits.
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Once you've run the entire
length of the trotline, you should wait 15 or 20
minutes before starting over again. This gives the
bait time to attract more crabs. If you're running a
fairly long trotline, you can start again
immediately. Some energetic crabbers like to set a
line of crab traps nearby to check while they're
waiting to run the trotline again. When you're
ready, return to the upwind buoy and start the whole
process over again!
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